The hardest part is leaving _{by Susan Barker}

Hawke’s Bay (Summer 2017)

My partner and I decided to get out of the fast-lane and spend a weekend in Hawke’s Bay. A Google search will reveal this region has much to offer, and we sampled a small portion of this amazing part of New Zealand.

We arrived on a Friday afternoon and checked into our accommodation, Beachfront Motel in Napier. The motel is upscale, comfortable, and the staff are very helpful. It is located on Marine Parade, which allowed for a stunning view of the sea and easy access to restaurants, shops, and tourist attractions (in these departments you will be spoilt for choice). Our first impression was how relaxed the locals are – it felt like a scene out of a film, with families strolling along the streets on a pleasant evening with the sea metres away and incredible Art Deco architecture at every turn.

Our first adventure was a day on the Mohaka River with Mohaka Rafting. We decided to go on a grade 3 rafting trip, but the company offers gentler trips for families, grade 4/5 outings for those who want more of a thrill, and overnight excursions if you really want to go bush. When we first arrived we were immediately greeted by owner/operator Norm, who provided wetsuits and jackets and talked us through what would be happening on the day. This was my first time white-water rafting and I was a little nervous, but there is no question: Norm and his team are the very definition of ‘safety first’.

Once we reached our point of entry on the river, we were helped into lifejackets and helmets before hopping aboard the raft. While we were floating towards the first rapid and things were calm, our raft’s guide, Dave, showed us the different paddling techniques and took us through the instructions he might call out. I felt this was the best way to learn, as hearing the instructions on land is quite different to putting them into practise on the river. By the time we reached the first rapid I felt confident, safe, and secure. I quickly learned that white-water rafting on this grade is intense excitement followed by periods of floating along. However, the beauty of the land and river are enough to keep anyone engaged. In addition, if you are lucky enough to have Dave as a guide, you will find he is extremely well-versed when it comes to history. At one point he showed us a sheer rock face where some of Te Kooti’s people escaped the English (in the 1800s) at night during a storm. It is one thing to read about this event, but to see the rock face and picture was incredible. He also shared things he has learned from people in the community that may not be common knowledge, such as the story of a local man taking the task of un-obstructing the river (after a slip) in his own hands, following Council’s decision to let nature take its course, by utilising some handy dynamite. From my point of view, there was never a dull moment.

At one point on the river we floated through the most stunning gorge, the stone cliffs towering over us as we drifted past large boulders, all lit by the soft green of the river. It felt like real New Zealand – untouched. While I know this may sound highly romanticised or perhaps I was under the influence of Dave’s recounting of the past, the area was charged with a different kind of energy – it felt sacred and everyone on the raft was silent. This was a major highlight for me, as moments like these are rare. The day concluded with tea, coffee, and biscuits beside the river where Marilyn, our lovely bus driver, was waiting to collect us. It was a very full day and I noticed many contented folks fell asleep on the bus ride back.

Ultimately, if you want a full experience on the river with thrilling rapids; stops along the way to view points of interest; to learn about local legends; and to discover parts of New Zealand that you can only access via the river – Mohaka Rafting is the way to go.

After a long but fun-filled day on the river we were pretty wiped out, but luckily the next day we started with a relaxing game of golf at Hawke’s Bay Golf Club. It may have been obvious to others that we were from Wellington when we commented on how warm and lovely the day was and were told that it was poor by Hawke’s Bay standards! This 18-hole course is about a 10-minute drive from Hastings and is currently undertaking some renovations, but the earthworks are contained and do not impact the course’s functionality or atmosphere. The setting is tranquil and everyone we encountered was friendly and accommodating. On a sunny Sunday, it felt like the ideal place to be, taking our time, enjoying the sound of birds, and having a go on the green. I am not an avid golfer, but Hawke’s Bay Golf Club definitely had me reconsidering how I spend my weekends.

The next item on our itinerary was a driving tour of the area, including stops at some wineries with Bay Tours and Charters. We were picked up from our hotel by Mark in a BMW that was at one time used to chauffeur John Key. Mark began by asking us what we were interested in, and we said we were keen on learning some more history. From there, Mark drove us around the area, pointing out sites of interest and even answering trout fishing questions from my partner (I was definitely impressed that we did not have one question Mark wasn’t able to answer, I don’t think there is a better guide in the region).

We visited three wineries and first on the list was Sileni Estates. Mark informed us before we began the tastings that he wanted us to start with a larger winery, then visit a small boutique operation, and finally come back to a large establishment to see what conclusions we would draw. I have to say that it is quite the experience visiting the wineries with Mark – all of the staff know him well and you certainly feel like a VIP for the day. He shared a lot of information about each winery with us, including the types of wine they produced and their harvesting process. I found this extremely helpful because once we entered the tasting room, I felt I had baseline knowledge and that made the experience that much better. Sileni is a beautiful winery and it is a popular venue for weddings. In the past, I have not been a huge fan of their wine but found once we moved up in quality they have some stunning wines on offer (yes, I may often shop from the lower shelves at the supermarket).

The next winery we visited was a very special place called Moana Park. This winery has quite a different back-story, and I encourage those visiting to take a tour of the premises because they have a very different process than most of the big boys in the industry. We learned on the tour that all of their wines are free of allergy-inducing additives and are certifiably vegetarian and vegan. I did not realise that most wines have a fining agent – like egg white or animal proteins, and often contain many chemicals. Here you know the wines are in the purest state possible. Moana do not produce the same wines every year, they go with what grapes are the best quality and their motto is, “Unpredictable, but that’s the way we like it”. It is rare these days to come across a business with these principles, particularly when larger wineries are scooping up smaller ones with increasing regularity in Hawke’s Bay. These standards come across clearly in their wines; they do not taste ordinary. You take a sip and the flavours are immediately very different from what you are accustomed to. Mark told us before we arrived that one of their whites (Viognier) would blow our minds. As always, Mark was right. I have never tasted anything like it and my partner, who prefers red on every occasion, wanted to buy a bottle immediately. We concluded our tasting at Moana with a scrumptious cheese platter that Mark provided that included several cheeses from Hohepa Cheesery. This outstanding organisation provides curative education and social therapy for children, young persons, and adults with intellectual disabilities, and produces remarkable products, like their cheeses, onsite.

Our last stop was Mission Estate Winery, established by missionaries who first grew grapes for communion wine. It is a place that is postcard perfection. Set on a hilltop in a large historic seminary and surrounded by well-maintained gardens, it boasts stunning views of Napier. The wine was fantastic but nothing felt extraordinary (we had been a bit spoilt by Moana Park). However, if you are looking for the ultimate setting for an event or a gourmet meal accompanied by fabulous wine, this is the place.

Almost everyone we met said that Hawke’s Bay had it all and the lifestyle was unbeatable. In fact, by the end of our trip I was quite sure the people of Hawke’s Bay must conspire together to encourage visitors to move to the region (Mark was pointing out potential real estate on our tour). I think this is testament to two things: the first being that everyone we met was warm, engaging, and extremely welcoming, and the second being that Hawke’s Bay is a wonderful place and people who live there know it. I was starting to agree: beautiful rivers, the sea on your doorstep, numerous vineyards, unlimited activities, glorious weather, friendly faces, and no traffic!

Be warned, the hardest part of visiting Hawke’s Bay is leaving it.