On cloud wine in Hawke’s Bay _{by Madelaine Empson}

Hawke's Bay (Summer 2022)

Ahh, sunny Hawke’s Bay. My friend Toula and I spent a weekend in New Zealand’s golden food and wine country, where I’m pleased to report we ate and drank to our hearts’ content. I’d been to Hawke’s Bay a few times growing up as my nana lives in Hastings, but was keen to get more in-depth in my explorations of the arty city alongside the Art Deco capital of Napier, the boutique village of Havelock North, and of course, the wineries dotted about the region like grapes on the vine.

After an easy, scenic four-hour drive on a Friday morning with a pit stop for road-trip snacks (would’ve been rude not to), Toula and I pulled into our accommodation for the weekend: Swiss Belboutique Napier.

The first international five-star brand in the city, I was wowed by the flash foyer of this premium Art Deco-style hotel, ideally located just minutes from the local bars, eateries, and shops – on foot! The staff were so friendly and helpful, and after checking in quickly with no hassles, we found our room appointed with everything we could need for a weekend getaway. The bathroom, complete with walk-in shower, was particularly luxe.

We didn’t have long to appreciate the amenities before we were off to our first destination, The Urban Winery, a sleek social hub, cellar door, and wine bar in Ahuriri. Here’s the thing – I was walking into a tasting of Tony Bish chardonnays knowing full well it was my least favourite varietal… was.

Our sommelier Tigs, who was funny, witty, and personable, kicked things off with the approachable Fat & Sassy. This herbaceous wine serves as the perfect introduction for what Tigs calls the ABCs of the world – those who drink Anything But Chardonnay. Toula and I, both confessed ABCs, took one sip and exchanged surprised glances. We loved it.

Next up was the mineral and refreshing 2019 Golden Egg Chardonnay, something that really sets this winemaker apart. Tony Bish pioneered the use of egg-shaped vessels rather than traditional barrels for fermentation. With no flat sides, the egg enables convection currents to naturally occur, keeping yeast in suspension. There’s a massive surface area for yeast-to-wine interaction, and the solid wall of the 70-millimetre-thick concrete shell allows for natural texture and preserves the purity of the fruit.

We then tried the 2021 Heartwood, a toasty, spicy vanilla concoction, and the 2016 Skeetfield, your classic big, powerful chardonnay with lots of new oak. Finally, we were treated to something really special: the Zen, made in a French oak ‘Ovum’ egg – the first Ovum in the Southern Hemisphere and one of only 20 in the world. This silky, texturally rich masterpiece bowled us both over.

It was official: we’d gone from ABCs to ACPs – Any Chardonnay Please! As long as it’s a Tony Bish.

Tigs gave us a peek behind the scenes, where we got to see the concrete eggs and meet the famous Ovum in person (not very chatty but certainly a looker). And then, the stunned chardonnay converts said their goodbyes and toddled off to dinner just up the road at The Boat Ramp Eatery.

This fun and friendly waterfront eatery is split in two – a bar, which felt very much like the local joint, and a restaurant, where we were seated overlooking the water. With an extensive wine list of Hawke’s Bay drops and an emphasis on local produce, the menu reflects a passion for the produce of the region.

We started with some old-school cocktails (a mojito and a bellini, made by the friendly bartender Nelson) before ordering the tender chargrilled squid from David. The squid was tender and flavoursome, with the black garlic mayo an intriguing addition that danced on the palate.

For our mains, I ordered the moules marinièr, a traditional French dish of steamed mussels in white wine. But this one was served with French fries and mayo, making for moules-frites, a comfort food from Belgium. I loved trying out different combos – the mussels in the mayo, the fries in the creamy broth, or everything in one bite. Toula ordered the battered blue cod and chips with homemade tartare, and we both agreed we hadn’t had better fish and chips in an age. Bravo!

Dessert was another delicious affair, especially thanks to the messed-up tiramisu. Fluffy, silky crème anglaise, cut through with liquor, the bitter heft of coffee grounds, and the crunch of walnuts, with generous bites of chocolate sponge bathing in the coffee foam... Can I have this for my morning coffee every day please?

We topped off the experience with a nightcap at the smart but casual Gintrap Restaurant and Bar, one of a handful of great bars in the popular West Quay of Ahuriri. Right by the water, this marina was jam-packed with people enjoying a night out in the balmy Hawke’s Bay air. Clearly the place to be, and we’d be back!

The next day it was raining, something the locals clearly weren’t used to, because about six of them apologised to us personally for the weather. I simply replied, “We’re from Wellington”, and was met with multiple renditions of “Say no more”. We didn’t let the grey get to us on our first stop for the day, a walking tour with the Art Deco Trust. It started with an introduction from our guide Tony and a short film produced and compiled by John Coking. The Day That Changed the Bay is about the 1931 earthquake that demolished most of the city and surrounds, costing 258 people their lives. Many of the buildings were rebuilt in concrete and steel in the Art Deco style, which was popular at the time. These Art Deco buildings still stand tall, lining the streets of Napier and giving the city the timeless, unique character it has today.

Our one-hour walking tour was excellent, not just because of the subject matter but the person who delivered it. Tony interspersed charming personal anecdotes into his commentary – like how he remembers going up and down the then-novel lifts of the Masonic Hotel as a young boy and getting told off by the manager. I have pages and pages of notes from the tour but I don’t want to spoil too many stories or surprises. If you’re reading this, Tony, I loved hearing about snooker in the Briasco’s Building! We had a grand ol’ time taking in the beautiful architecture of the city and learned so much on every street corner.

Then we were off to MTG Hawke’s Bay. With a handful of permanent collections and visiting exhibitions, this museum, theatre, and art gallery is well worth a visit, especially thanks to the Earthquake Gallery, which helped us tie in all the things we’d just learned. Survivor stories are displayed throughout, with one quote from a Lois Dolbel particularly resonating with me: “I looked down at the town and I saw the Cathedral take a huge sigh and go down like a house of cards”. In the Malden Gallery, Georgina Hetley’s The Native Flowers of New Zealand was particularly lovely, and it was great to be able to take home a chart of the plants used in traditional rongoā Māori medicine. Who knew mānuka could help with dandruff?

Our next stop was the beautiful Mission Estate in the Taradale hills. Established in 1851 by French missionaries, Mission Estate is New Zealand’s oldest surviving winery and has a fascinating past, which we learned about over a wine tasting with Deanna. In 1909, the building was cut into 11 sections and rolled on logs and pulled by traction engines to the site it’s on – and that we were in – that very day.

Deanna took us through the Sparkling Fête, a hand-harvested bubbly made from pinot gris and chardonnay; the light, easy-drinking Gaia Project Rosé; the 2021 Reserve Chardonnay (light but still with hints of butter); the Reserve Syrah, a big, beautiful, peppery plum potion; and the vibrant 2019 Reserve Merlot. I loved seeing the wines Mission Estate has made in honour of their world-famous concert guests, including a Rod Stewart bottle necked with a bowtie!

We were thrilled to be served a delectable platter at Mission Estate Restaurant adorned with cheese, bread, cured meats, fruit, pickled veggies, candied nuts, and even battered fish fillets. Talk about spoiled! Before we shot off, we took in some more of the history of the estate downstairs in the cellar, where we found old photos lining the walls and a remembrance fountain, erected from the stones of the onsite chapel that fell in the 1931 earthquake to honour the two priests and seven students who died inside.

That night, Napier’s Arts Quarter transformed before our very eyes in Nuit Blanche – Art After Dark, on as part of the Hawke’s Bay Arts Festival. Alleyways and main streets, carparks and lanes were cordoned off to cars and lit up by installations and projections. Street performers and DJs roamed about, with live music and dance sending the energy into the stratosphere. The locals went hard for it; some were dressed even more outrageously than the performers! Meanwhile, food trucks and pop-up stalls kept us all well fed as we explored the luminous realm. A highlight for me was the street show from Wellington brothers and juggling sensations Zane and Degge Jarvie. Such charisma, such pizazz. Plus, a little kid tried to make off with one of the performer’s shoes.

A scrummy brekkie at Swiss Belboutique charged us up for our last full day in the bay, which started with the Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market in Hastings. A hub for local growers and artisan producers, the vibes there were fantastic, especially thanks to the live music. We settled in for a second breakfast with Bacon & Co, who’ve had their spot at the market for 10 years, and a freshly squeezed orange juice from Henry’s before enjoying the rest of the spoils. It’s never too early for wine, right? Not when it’s a 2019 Late Harvest Syrah from Hawkes Ridge Estate anyway.

Armed with buttery walnut brittle from Maud and Harry’s Walnut Company, honey from Berry Bees, and cheese, cheese, and more cheese, we set off for the Hastings Town Centre to take a bite of the big apple. Well, maybe not a bite – I don’t think the 20 apple sculptures on the Big Apple Trail would’ve been very tasty – but we had great fun on our juicy treasure hunt.

Then it was off to Havelock North for the boutique shopping the village is renowned for. Only problem was, most of it’s closed on Sundays! On our window shopping spree we did manage to duck our heads into a few places that were open, like Cadeaux for unique gifts and homeware and the homely Wardini Books, where we found an extensive children’s literature section. Then a local recommended Birdwoods Gallery. What a great suggestion – with an old-fashioned sweet shop overflowing with overexcited kids, a picturesque outdoor restaurant and café, and an expansive sculpture garden, Birdwoods is a must-visit.

Even though we didn’t get to experience Havelock North Village in all its chic glory, the sun had come out in full force, making Sunday the best day of the whole weekend for climbing Te Mata Peak. All I can say is, wow. What a beautiful walk, and what a view from the top! There are different trails for varying fitness levels and I insisted on one of the easiest (much to Toula’s dismay). But we still felt so rewarded taking in the 360-degree panoramas of Napier and Mahia Peninsula to the north and east, hill country to the south and east, and the Ruahine, Kaweka, and Maungaharuru Ranges capping the skyline beyond the fertile Heretaunga Plains. Plus, I did 30,000 steps that day so I still put in the mahi! Despite how well maintained and signposted the tracks are, we got lost on the way back on the Giant Redwoods walk. With colossal, 100-year-old Californian redwood trees towering above us, some at 40 metres, I can’t think of a more beautiful place to lose your bearings.

Our last night culminated in a hearty dinner at The Thirsty Whale, overlooking Napier harbour on the marina in Ahuriri. A generous helping of perfectly cooked steak, a big glass of red, and a roaring fire? Sometimes my job is really hard…

But Monday had come back around (rude), so it was back to Wellington for us. Not before a spontaneous stopover at Trinity Hill though, where we had a decadent platter and wine tasting led by the effervescent Rahil.

From the 2019 Marsanne/Viognier, an aromatic apricot delight, to the rightfully multi-award-winning 2020 Syrah; the robust 2021 Tempranillo to Rahil’s favourite, the Touriga NZ Port (which “tastes like Christmas” and fits the definition of a nice port, one that “makes you sink into your seat and never get up again”), we were dazzled by Trinity Hill’s exquisite range – our palates even more so. Rahil wove stories and banter through our afternoon in this gorgeous setting aglow with the light and heat of the sweltering sun.

What a perfect end to a perfect weekend in Hawke’s Bay.