Forever in Whangārei _{by Alessia Belsito-Riera}

Whangārei (Summer 2023)

An adventure in Whangārei seemed like the perfect opportunity for a mother-daughter trip. It has been some time since we have been able to go on a trip just the two of us, and my mum is the best travel partner and super cool. I love Te Tai Tokerau and couldn’t wait to share this special region of Aotearoa with her.

We had an early flight out of Wellington Airport, the lack of wind a favourable omen for the beautiful weekend on the horizon, despite the forecast of inclement weather. Once we picked up our rental car, it was gung-ho up the coast, the sun beaming down on us. By lunchtime we had reached Orewa, where we stopped for a bite to eat at a tapas restaurant called Tasca. Sitting outside beneath an umbrella, the palm trees rustling in the breeze, the chatter of voices floating through the air, summer was in full swing in this part of the country – a far cry from the perennial blustery, rainy days in the capital. Filled to the brim with potatoes and mushrooms we couldn’t bear to leave behind, a walk along the beach was not a want but a need. The trail was lined with lovely homes and the ocean’s gentle ripples kissed the sand, the whole walkway bursting with pōhutukawa. A postcard image of a New Zealand Christmas.

To say the drive to Whangārei was picturesque would be an understatement. From rolling hills and extensive tracts of farmland to steep hills cloaked in native bush, every time I make this drive the balmy air fills my lungs and I can’t help but feel invigorated. Once we summited the Brynderwyns and snaked our way across the countryside, we rounded a corner and suddenly, as if transported by faeries, we were in Whangārei.

Meeted and greeted at Lodge Bordeaux by the managers of hospitality Lucy and Reginald, the sweetest sausage-shaped Shih Tzu and most distinguished gentleman Schnauzer, owner Stephanie showed us to our room. Our two-bedroom suite was one of the nicest rooms I have stayed in. On par with places I have stayed in Las Vegas and along the Italian Riviera, our two bedrooms opened onto an open-plan living room, kitchen, and dining room complete with a spa bath and a patio overlooking the pool, all beautifully decorated. What truly stood out to both of us was the attention to detail – everything we could have wanted or needed was already supplied, every choice made thoughtfully, every detail intentional. It is evident the dedication, passion, and genuine love Stephanie and David put into Lodge Bordeaux.

We drove downtown to take an evening stroll along the Hātea Loop before dinner. Skirting the river’s edge and meandering through the beautifully restored and restructured Town Basin, the walkway follows to the mouth of the Hātea River, bypassing public works of art along the way. We chose Fat Camel Café, an Israeli and Middle Eastern eatery that felt and tasted as authentic as they come. The flavours burst in my mouth: the tangy labneh prickling my tongue, the falafel little pockets of spice, the baba ghanoush twirling my tastebuds in a tango. It was pure bliss, and not the first meal we would enjoy there over the weekend.

We awoke to gleaming sunshine, perfect for our 11am guided walk with Tu Tika Tours. In the centre of the Town Basin, husband-and-wife team Mervyn and Rangimarie welcomed us to Whangārei with a pōwhiri, encouraging us to extend our own version in return. Mervyn and Rangimarie are those kinds of rare souls with whom you instantly feel comfortable and at ease. Guiding us along the Hātea River, the couple shared with us their deep connection to their culture, the land and the water, the flora and fauna, the people here now and those who once walked the same ground, but now do so in a different way, and, of course, themselves. As they recounted together the story of how Te Tauwhanga ā Reipae, or Whangārei, got her name, their passion, connection, and a feeling that sits somewhere between love and pride that they exude for their home felt not just palpable, but infectious. As they said haere rā, Merv and Rangimarie kindly asked for the weather to hold for the duration of our stay in Whangārei, something we would indeed be blessed with despite the forecast. A highlight of our trip, thanks to Merv and Rangimarie we felt honoured to have been so generously welcomed to Whangārei. We may have arrived as strangers, but we left feeling like whānau.

Ice cream in hand, we wandered through the covered downtown looking at the shops along the cobbled pedestrian-only street before ambling over to the Hundertwasser Art Centre, where we learned all about the eccentric artist to whom it’s dedicated from our guide Amy. Born in Germany between the wars, Friedensreich Hundertwasser travelled the world on his yacht, finding a sense of home in Te Tai Tokerau. He lived on his Northland property for many years, making his artwork and designing fantastical buildings. The museum stands as tribute to him, his work, and his ideology.

With a beautiful hotel room waiting for us, that night we decided to watch a movie and eat some pizza, the rain pitter-pattering on the roof while we sat cosy and content within.

Sunday morning we drove east along the Tutukākā Coast, where two very trusty steeds awaited us at Sandy Bay Horses. Steve (the horse) and I became great friends immediately, as did my mom and mare Good Girl. Kiley and her assistant Angie ensured that as complete beginners, we felt comfortable, secure, and prepared before embarking on our trek. Originally a dairy farm, the property has belonged to Kiley’s husband Dylan’s family for four generations. Over the past 13 years, the couple has been reestablishing the native trees and plants, restoring the land into a slice of Northland heaven. Kiley (and Steve) took me past their glampsite called Awatuna Yurt, which is nestled in amongst the trees, the stream burbling below – a picture-perfect luxury escape I’d love to enjoy someday. Rounding the bend and traversing the creek, we tied up the horses for what Kiley called a “little adventure” down to the water’s edge. To our surprise and delight we were met by a family of tuna kuwharuwharu. Having called this stream home for aeons, the long-fin eels are part of the family. Before this moment I had never seen these creatures in person before, much less had the opportunity to interact and even touch them. More than a little adventure, this was a moment of pure magic.

Back with my noble Steve, Kiley decided to take us on the more advanced route – and I am so glad she did. Up and over the hill onto the ridgeline, suddenly the valley opened up below us: the stream, the bush, the beautiful property, and shining Sandy Bay stretching out endlessly into the wild blue yonder of the Pacific.

Saying goodbye to my new bestie Steve, we left with smiles from ear to ear. We were recommended the Whale Bay Loop Track from Matapouri, so we zipped around the promontory. Matapouri Beach is one of the most quintessentially Kiwi spots I have stumbled upon. Framed by a hill jutting into the ocean and flanked by cabbage trees, pōhutukawa, and punga, the turquoise sea gently caresses the golden sand. I could have gladly stayed here all day, but we clambered up the track that promised to lead us to Whale Bay. After a series of inclines and downward slopes, along more than one steep staircase, Whale Bay emerged as if by sorcery from the curtain of native bush. Pristine and crystal clear, it is a sight to behold: the pōhutukawa branches dancing low above the waves, their roots nestled into the sand, a place so beautiful that Mother Earth and the god of the sea agreed to share.

As suggested by Merv and Rangimarie, on our way home we stopped off at Otuihau Whangārei Falls. At 26 metres, they cascade over basalt cliffs into a shimmering pool below. In the waterfall’s presence, it is easy to see why it’s considered to have spiritual, healing, and cultural significance for tangata whenua.

We woke up with a heavy heart on Monday knowing our time in Whangārei was coming to a close. We had pre-ordered breakfast at Lodge Bordeaux after seeing one make its way into another room the day before. It looked so delicious we simply had to try it. With all kinds of options, including fresh fruit and gluten-free crêpes my mum couldn’t have been more excited about, I can quite confidently say it was the best breakfast we had on the trip. Beautifully presented and lovingly prepared, it was just another touch that made our experience at the hotel feel tailored and special.

Bellies full we set off south, telling Whangārei not goodbye but see you soon. To stretch our legs we stopped at Waipu Beach, covered in shells, a lazy creek burbling through, gentle waves, and beaming sunshine. We considered staying in Northland and ‘accidentally’ missing our flight. Enjoying the thought, we had a snooze in the sun before confronting reality.

Our big, beautiful world is full of special places, and Aotearoa New Zealand is blessed with many. However, there are few spots that compare to our Far North. From its sultry, humid air to the lush, abundant landscape overflowing with life, its unparalleled beaches to the lively centres bustling with personality and pride, and of course the passionate locals who infuse its gentle days with character and heart, this region possesses a feeling of vibrancy and enthusiasm, a love of life that is infectious. Whangārei, Te Tai Tokerau, you have kept a piece of my heart.