Bluebird skies and rows of vines _{by Alessia Belsito-Riera}

Top of the South (Summer 2024)

By the time the plane reached altitude, we were already preparing the cabin for landing on our 30-minute flight from Wellington to Blenheim. Just a hop, skip, and a jump and yet on this side of the Cook Strait, we were greeted by bluebird skies and rows of vines stretching out towards the mountains.

Our chariot – a Nissan – secured, it was time for Mum and me to do what we do best: find the perfect spot for tea. Karaka Central did us a treat, with piping-hot Ceylon, little sweets, and a sunny window seat. Our accommodation, Vintners Retreat, was just a short 15-minute drive from Blenheim’s city centre along a tree-dotted, vineyard-speckled road. True to its name, it sits amongst the vines, and our fully selfcontained unit at the back of the landscaped grounds had the best view of the endless, tumbling rows. With two floors, the bottom space included an ample and beautifully decorated kitchen, living, and dining room that led out onto the patio and garden that framed the sprawling view. Equipped with everything you could need for a relaxing or social stay, we already knew we’d spend the early morning hours transfixed by the scenery. Upstairs, two rooms and a gorgeous bathroom with a spa felt luxurious, but it was the enormous window on the staircase and the enchanting balcony that stole the show.

After lounging about in bliss, it was time for dinner… but not before a mini photoshoot on the balcony, the sprawling vines in the background, smiles from ear to ear. The moment we stepped inside Gramado’s Restaurant & Bar, a Brazilian-inspired eatery, it felt like we had been coming there for years. Our waiters Roger and owner Saulo were the epitome of charisma as they offered suggestions and brought us extra touches for our meals. We started off with what I have now deemed my new hyper-fixation food: pão de queijo. Imagine a cheese scone pancake made into a gooey, fluffy, soft, and oh-so-tasty ball. Our entrées were bursting with flavour and presented with a selection of chili sauces, each one bringing out new tastes. Just when we thought we couldn’t eat another bite, Roger appeared with a complimentary, chocolatey dessert. We rolled out of Gramado’s stuffed and happy in the direction of Fidelio Café and Wine Bar. Here we whiled away the evening listening to local jazz tunes and sipping a Marlborough rosé. A perfect end to the first day of what was already shaping up to be an exquisite trip.

Saturday began bright and early, but we had some soft sunlight leading us into Blenheim for breakfast. Perched above the Ōpaoa River, Raupo Café, Restaurant & Traiteur enjoys a beautiful patio drenched in sunlight where we devoured banana bread French toast and watched sparrows building nests and ducklings scooting along the river right in the centre of town.

Our first stop for the day was Spy Valley Wine, where Dan met us with a beautiful charcuterie board, plenty of wine, and a picturesque view of the grape vines nestled into the bewitching Waihopai Valley. Fun and full of life, the Spy Valley brand takes inspiration from the spy base situated in close proximity that was established in the 1990s. Their labels include clever details the likes of morse code messages and James Bond-esque logos. As well as telling us about the vinos, the region, and the company, Dan kept us laughing for hours with his stories and cheeky sense of humour. We sampled reds, whites, a rosé, and even a special vintage dessert wine produced entirely by accident. I hope to taste many more such happy accidents in future! Our time at Spy Valley was exceptional, and an experience I would enjoy again and again – I can’t wait until my next reconnaissance mission to their base.

Though we happily would have spent the entire day enjoying the atmosphere and wines at Spy Valley, we had an activity of the upmost importance planned: an afternoon at the New Zealand Cheese Festival. I am pleased to announce neither me nor my mum were able to contain our joy, sampling every morsel, slice, and cube the stallholders were willing to give us. From gouda made in Kerikeri to buffalo mozzarella from Canterbury, traditional ricotta manufactured in Nelson to goat cheese crafted in Blenheim, tangy terrine cooked up in Te Waipounamu to aged salami from Christchurch, we chewed our way through Aotearoa’s best and smelliest products, washing it all down with a glass of Clos Henri white. It doesn’t get much better than that!

Following our cheescapades, we were in dire need of a walk. The stark, dramatic beauty of the Wairau Lagoons Walkway was arresting. Marshland punctuated by swaths of green mossy streams populated by birds stretched out around us. We were completely immersed in the landscape, as for the majority of the walk we found ourselves on raised boardwalks leading out as far as the eye could see. This wild and open space is a wonderful juxtaposition against the manicured and cultivated rows of grapes further inland – proof that Blenheim has the best of both worlds.

If you can believe it, we actually consumed more cheese that evening, having collected quite the haul at the festival. Spread out before us in the lounge was the charcuterie board of our dreams, packed tall with cheese, meat, and local fruits, vegetables, and treats, all paired perfectly with a bottle of 2022 Spy Valley pinot noir rosé. We went to sleep beyond happy, spoiled, and grateful to our Italian genes for the ability to digest such a spectacular spread. I have heard that cheese causes nightmares, but that was impossible after such a dream of a day.

When morning came, we were sad to say goodbye to Blenheim. But we had an exciting day ahead in Nelson, and it was time for breakfast, which we had at the idyllic Vines Village just down the road. Our eggs benedict was accompanied by a beautiful view over the little lake where a rowboat floated in the gentle morning sun.

Our drive to Nelson was an experience in itself, the winding road skirting bucolic scenery, deep valleys, and bush-covered mountains. As we ambled into Havelock, we were struck by the serenity of its boats bobbing gently in the harbour and houses poking out from behind rolling hills. Just a few kilometres away, we parked up at Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve, where we took a walk along the forest track until we reached the Rai River suspension bridge hung high above the raging, tumbling, pastel-hued river below.

When we pulled into Nelson around midday, we headed straight to Two Arrows Archery. Owner and instructor Glenn was enthusiastic, engaging, and attentive, fitting us with the right-sized bow and teaching us the proper stance and technique before letting us loose on the targets. With his guidance, we even got a bullseye! Invigorated by our Robin

Hood performances, we strolled through Nelson’s Miyazu Japanese Garden, which whisked us away to somewhere far away, where lily pads bloomed and cherry trees dripped with flowers.

We set our sights on Parkside Motel in Richmond and found a delightful room that included a kitchenette, living space complete with a TV, comfortable bedroom, luxurious bathroom, and a view over the gleaming pool. The balcony looked out over the sports field towards the sea, making it the perfect spot for a cuppa. When our tummies were ready for dinner, they led us to a local pizzeria and restaurant called Eat Italy. Handmade in the wood-fired oven, the gluten-free and regular pizzas were exceptional, transporting us back home to Italy with every bite. Chef Cherif El Bakkali was born in Italy to Moroccan parents, and combines all three cultures – Italian, Moroccan, and Kiwi – into his menu. Take this from two Italiane, Cherif’s pizza is some of the best we’ve had.

On our last day we woke up in need of a pick-me-up. Sleepwalking into Sublime Coffee Roasters, we were immediately reinvigorated by the rich brew, roasted right there in the eclectic and vibrant space, a certified coffee haven. To fill our bellies, we walked through the alley filled with food trucks serving up cuisine from around the world to the Pinterestworthy Victus Coffee & Eatery for light, fluffy, and moreish pastries. Next, our morning took us to Rotokura Cable Bay. Just a 25-minute drive outside the city, this beautiful gem was a picture-perfect example of the landscape this region is famous for. Great for swimming, fishing, kayaking, and rock-pooling, the headland is connected to Pepin Island by a causeway, which creates a natural barrier from the sea for the Wakapuaka Estuary. In short, the panorama from the viewing platform was spectacular. Following sufficient frolicking, we opted to spend our last hours in Nelson perusing the galleries and boutiques that populate the eclectic and vibrant centre.

As we soared above the Sounds reflecting on our favourite moments from this trip, I was reminded of how fortunate Kiwis are to be able to explore such a special corner of the Earth as Aotearoa, let alone call it home. Blenheim and Nelson welcomed us with open arms, enveloping us in their warm hospitality, homegrown passion, gentle pace, and genuine joie de vivre. These towns gifted my mum and me a weekend we will never forget. They are singular in New Zealand for their atmosphere, charm, and landscape, but share with the rest of our country the same beauty, spirit, and magic.