A wild and wonderful wander _{by Alessia Belsito-Riera}

West Coast (Summer 2025)

It’s not until you cross the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps at altitude that you realise what a special slice of the country the West Coast is. Remote and raw, it lived up to its title of wild and wonderful from the moment my partner Jas and I stepped off the aircraft, which felt more like a handkerchief than a plane when suspended thousands of feet above sea level. Lucky for us, it was smooth sailing on our inbound flight with views stretching far into the horizon, leaving our spirits sky-high upon touch down.

Thanks to RaD Car Hire, within 15 minutes of landing in Hokitika we were on the road and heading north to Shantytown Heritage Park, which greeted us with shining sun as Andrea handed us our maps and prospector permits before setting us free in the recreated goldrush village. The historic buildings are both replica and original structures from the 1800s, with memorabilia and artefacts tucked away within. After exploring the town, we hopped aboard Rosie, a 1957 Diesel TR107 train with Iona at the helm. She invited Jas and I into the cab to show us how she operates the heritage trains before handing us off to Charlie, who set the sluice gun in motion, freeing up enough debris for us to go gold panning… and gold we found – a special keepsake to remember a Shantytown experience filled with childlike wonder.

At lunchtime, we zipped to The Hokitika Sandwich Company. It was busy and bustling, but we didn’t mind as it gave us time to grab a picture in front of the famous Hokitika driftwood sign and wander along the beach. Lunch secured, we set off to the Hokitika Gorge, where we ate our scrumptious sammies overlooking the glacial Hokitika River – lunch with a view! As we looped around the two-kilometre podocarp-clad track and over swing bridges, the vistas got better at every bend.

Following a fish ‘n’ chip and whitebait fritter dinner on the beach, we snuggled into Thatcher & Small for something sweet, and two delectable desserts and a local pint later, we slinked into our perfectly warmed, beautifully restored suite at Hokitika Fire Station for a luxurious sleep ahead of an early rise.

It was barely light out when we began our journey south to Franz Josef. The drizzle that set in didn’t diminish the beauty of the drive, but as it steadily increased to a downpour, it did mean our kayak tour was cancelled. And yet, Dee and Dale at Franz Josef Wilderness Tours went above and beyond to ensure our day was nothing but smiles by sending us on an off-road quad adventure with guides Leo and Jacob. As the rain pummelled down, they led us deep into the rainforest through puddles that passed our gumboots and under ferns that eclipsed the sky before taking us onto the riverbed where thunder boomed and we careened through streams at full tilt. We were fizzing when we pulled into the lot and thrilled we got to have this fortuitous experience that I would highly recommend to anyone come rain or shine. Soaked and smiling from ear to ear, we jaunted off to the ever-so accommodating Legacy Te Waonui Hotel Franz Josef for a hot shower in our beautiful room overlooking the rainforest and mighty mountains beyond.

We were in a room so serene it was hard not to snooze to the sound of rain and native birds, but the afternoon called for an encounter with some locals that we didn’t want to miss. At West Coast Wildlife Centre we came face to beak and claw with all manner of Kiwi beasties. Kath introduced us to her clan of tuatara while telling us all about what makes them unique before moving down to the incubation room where the conservation team ensure kiwi hatch and are fit and healthy enough to be released into the wild. In fact, lucky for us, a Haast tokoeka had been born just hours before our arrival. After some hands-on learning, we tip-toed through the kiwi room where two scratched and fossicked in the undergrowth! Never have I seen our special species so closely; what magic to witness their world. As if we hadn’t gotten lucky enough, the centre opened the brand-new penguin facility that day. Here, injured kororā/little blue penguins that cannot be released back into the wild have a place to call home and serve as ambassadors to teach visitors about conservation. As a northern hemisphere import, seeing penguins will never cease to fill me with joy.

Tuckered out, we tucked into bed after a delicious dinner at Monsoon Restaurant and a stroll in the calm, periwinkle evening, dreams of the next day’s activities dancing in our heads.

With bellies full from the hotel’s bountiful buffet brekkie, we rolled down the road to Franz Josef Glacier Guides. After a touch-and-go couple of hours due to volatile weather with the incredibly prepared, proactive, and patient team, Jas and I found ourselves standing at a helipad ready to embark on an adventure like nothing we had experienced before. The second of only two groups that would manage to see the famous Franz Josef Glacier that day, our helicopter bobbed and weaved through the valley past tumbling waterfalls and Jurassic Park-like scenery until suddenly, out of the clouds, the glacier emerged like an icy tongue ready to swallow us up. It’s hard to describe an experience so surreal, but stepping onto the glacier felt both ancient and otherworldly. We were giddy, like kids on Christmas morning holding a moment that felt simultaneously like an out-of-body experience and deeply, inherently rooted to a planet pulsing with raw, primordial force.

A bumpy chopper ride brought us back down to Earth, and needing to do something with the energy that had collected in our tummies, we decided to take a look at Lake Mapourika and the Okarito River. We had it all to ourselves and frolicked along the shore and in the riverbed while enjoying the temporary relief from the rain. With time to spare before our next activity, we entered Westland Tai Poutini National Park, which is just a quick drive up the road from Franz Josef along the river. As the rain set in, we set out to Peters Pool, a viewpoint where the two mountains that cup the glacier are picturesquely mirrored in the small kettle lake.

Soggy enough to warrant a warm-up, off we went to Waiho Hot Tubs. Surrounded by punga, the woodfired baths are an oasis. The water glints with golden shimmers, raindrops patter to the forest floor, and birds chirp overhead. Despite being in the centre of town, it feels as though you’re immersed in a private world unto yourself. Ahh… pure bliss.

After a peaceful sleep post-gallivanting and soaking, the next morning we awoke much more prepared for our buffet breakfast, which we approached with the tactical manoeuvres of a well-trained military unit. We had a bit of a drive ahead of us to get to West Coast Treetop Walkway, where we climbed through the trees and up a tower to the zipline starting point 20 metres above ground. With no time to think, we jumped, skirting between towering 800-year-old rimu trees along the 425-metre dual zipline at 60 kilometres an hour back to base. What a rush! The rain on our faces cooled the adrenaline as we ambled along the 450-metre steel canopy walkway greeting birds and overlooking views that stretched out over Lake Māhinapua and the Pacific Ocean.

Our last stop along our whirlwind trip of the wild West Coast was a carving session at Bonz ‘N’ Stonz. Carver Te Huia, overflowing with infectious energy, helped us choose our pounamu, bone, or stone and work through design ideas. Ever so patiently, he showed each of us how to use the machines, ensuring we were comfortable before leaving us to our own devices. First, we shaped the pendants, then engraved them with our designs, and finally set to polishing before the lovely Wendy did our wrapping. Te Huia gently guided us, offering advice but largely letting us discover on our own. The pieces we made truly felt like ours, and with the good vibes from the studio etched into the very being of the piece, I can’t wait to give mine to the person I made it specially for. Bonz ‘N’ Stonz give you more than an artistic and cultural experience; they give you a taonga through which to remember the West Coast by.

After any trip or party or special occasion, Jas and I play a little game that we have begrudgingly adopted from a friend where we choose a highlight, a lowlight, and a learning moment. Following our West Coast trip, it would be impossible to choose a single highlight, and as far as lowlights go, not even the raindrops dampened our spirits. As for a learning experience? That the West Coast is a magic corner of Aotearoa saturated in stories and storms, in myth and mayhem, in ancient forests and fizzing atmosphere. Its history is woven into its landscape; criss-crossing from the tallest peaks to the tumbling coast like its glacial braided rivers, the two are inextricably linked. It’s a place where the spirits of the past walk hand in hand with the stories of the present; somewhere that needs to be seen, heard, and felt to be truly known.